Embroidery success isn’t just about the design – using the right needle for your fabric is equally important. Different fabrics vary in thickness and weave, so they require specific needle types and sizes for the best results. The proper combination for your embroidery stitches are crisp, even, and free of damage to the material.
Below, we explore eight common fabric types and explain which embroidery machine needle (type and size) works best for each, and why that combination matters for stitch quality.
Cotton: Sharp 75/11 Needle for Crisp Stitches
Cotton is a staple fabric for embroidery digitizing, from quilting cotton to woven shirts. It’s a stable, non-stretchy fabric with a tight weave, so a sharp-point needle is ideal for clean penetration. This size range is small enough to avoid leaving big holes in the fabric, but strong enough to handle cotton thread and dense stitching. The sharp tip cleanly pierces through the tightly woven fibers rather than pushing them aside, resulting in a clear design outline.
Denim: Sturdy Sharp Needle (80/12–90/14)
Denim is a thick, durable cotton fabric, often used in jeans and jackets, and it can handle highly detailed embroidery designs. Because denim is heavy and densely woven, it requires a strong, sharp needle to penetrate its fibers. Using the right needle on denim for smooth stitching and prevents thread breaks or needle damage. Denim’s tough fibers can dull a regular needle quickly, so using a sturdy needle (or even a titanium-coated embroidery needle for longevity) is wise.
Silk: Fine Sharp Needle (70/10)
Silk is a delicate, luxurious fabric that demands a gentle touch during embroidery. Because silk (and similarly delicate fabrics like chiffon) is lightweight and prone to showing needle holes, a very fine needle is essential. The combination of a fine, sharp needle on silk preserves the fabric’s integrity and produces smooth stitches. A sharp tip slices through silk’s filaments without tugging, which helps avoid puckering on this thin material.
Satin: Small Needle and Smooth Point
Satin is another popular fabric for embroidery, known for its glossy sheen and smooth, sometimes slippery texture. Satin can be made from silk or polyester, but in either case it has a tight weave with long floating threads that create the shine.
To avoid damaging these threads, you’ll want to use a small needle (around 75/11) with a point that won’t cause snags. No matter which point style you choose, the needle-and-satin combination should prevent puckering and preserve the fabric’s smooth finish.
Leather: Specialty Leather Needle (80/12)
Embroidering on leather or faux leather is a unique challenge because leather isn’t woven – it’s a solid material, and needle holes in it are permanent. For lighter weight or thin leathers (and most vinyl), a size 75/11 leather needle is a good starting point. Thus, using the correct leather needle for each stitch is formed through a neat slit that the thread can pass through easily.
Knit Fabrics (Jersey & Stretch): Ballpoint 75/11 Needle
Knit fabrics, such as cotton jersey T-shirts, interlock knit onesies, or sweatshirt fleece, have a very different structure from woven cloth. Rather than a tight criss-cross weave, knits are made of interlooping yarns that give the material stretch.
Because of this, you’ll want a ballpoint needle for machine embroidery on any knit or stretchy fabric. The consistent factor is the ballpoint tip – many home embroidery needles are labeled “ballpoint” or specifically “jersey” needles for this purpose.
Terrycloth (Towels): Ballpoint Needle
Terrycloth, the fabric used in towels and bathrobes, has a distinctive looped pile that requires special consideration when embroidering. Depending on the towel’s thickness and loop density, you may choose either a ballpoint needle or a sharp needle. But fundamentally, a proper needle (ballpoint for loose terry, sharp for dense terry) for your towel embroidery is tidy, legible, and durable even after repeated washes.
Sheer & Lightweight Fabrics: Extra-Fine Needle (65/9)
When working with sheer, lightweight fabrics like organza, chiffon, or tulle, you must be extremely careful in your needle selection. The general recommendation is to use the finest needle available – often a size 65/9 or 70/10 – for sheer material. The embroidery will enhance the sheer fabric without overpowering or damaging it, which is exactly what you want for these light-as-air textiles.
Why Choose Impact Digitizing for Needle Help?
At Impact Digitizing, we understand that every fabric requires a thoughtful approach, especially when it comes to embroidery needle selection. Our team brings years of hands-on experience with different textiles, from delicate silks to heavy denim, for your designs to stitch cleanly and professionally.
Conclusion
Using the proper embroidery needle for each fabric type is a simple step that dramatically improves your embroidery quality. By having the right needle (whether it’s a 75/11 ballpoint for a t-shirt or a 80/12 leather needle for vinyl), you’re setting yourself up for smooth embroidery with excellent stitch quality on any fabric.
FAQs
1. Why is it important to use the right needle for each fabric?
A: Using the correct needle for clean stitches prevents fabric damage and helps your embroidery look professional. The wrong needle can cause puckering, thread breaks, skipped stitches, or even tear the fabric.
2. How do I know which needle size to use on different fabrics?
A: Match the needle size to the weight of the fabric. Lighter fabrics like silk use smaller sizes (60/8 or 70/10), while heavier fabrics like denim or leather need larger sizes (80/12 or 90/14).
3. What’s the difference between sharp and ballpoint needles?
A: Sharp needles have a fine point that cuts through tightly woven fabrics like cotton or silk. Ballpoint needles have a rounded tip that pushes between threads, making them ideal for knits and stretching fabrics without causing snags or holes
